Checkers - The Five Fundamental Positions (Part II)

THE THIRD POSITION

DIAGRAM 1.--White to Move and Win.

White being a man ahead appears to have an easy win; but owing to the difficulty of getting the man crowned he has a hard task before him.

If the Kings on 11 and 12 were removed White would not be able to win at all, as the Black King would go back and forth between 19 and 23. It is, therefore, clear that in forcing a win from the position of the diagram the King on 12 must cooperate.

Another point to be borne in mind is that the following position would be a draw with White to move.

DIAGRAM 2.
White is unable to make any headway because he cannot threaten an exchange. The method in which White threatens the exchange of the King on 19 in the example of third position given in Diagram 1 is the following:
Black White
(1) ... 20-24
(2) 11-15 24-27

12-8 would be of no use as 19-23 would force 8-12 again.
(3) 15-11

If 15-18 White wins by 27-31
(3) ... 27-32

27-31 would admit of a draw by (4) 19-23, 28-24; (5) 23-27, 24- 20; (6) 27-23, 12-16; (7) 11-15, etc.
(4) 11-15 12-8
(5) 15-18 32-27
(6) 18-15 27-31
(7) 15-18 8-11
(8) 18-23 11-7
(9) 19-15

This is better than allowing the Kings to get together.
(9) ... 28-24
(10) 23-27 24-20
(11) 27-23 7-2
(12) 15-11 2-6
(13) 23-19 6-10

If he moved the other King, Black would draw by 19-16.
(14) 19-23 10-14
(15) 23-19

Black would lose easily if he allowed the man to advance
(15) ... 14-18

Threatening to exchange
(16) 19-24

The only move to avoid the exchange.
(16) ... 18-23
(17) 24-28 23-19
(18) 28-32 31-26
(19) 32-28 26-23
(20) 28-32 23-18
(21) 32-28 19-15
(22) 11-8 20-16

and White cannot be prevented from getting another King.

An earlier setting of third position is shown in Diagram 3.

DIAGRAM 3.

White wins by
(1) ... 19-24
(2) 27-31 32-28
(3) 23-27 30-23
(4) 27-32 23-18
(5) 32-27 24-20
(6) 27-23 19-15, etc.

THE FOURTH POSITION
Although White is a piece ahead he has great difficulties in winning on account of the weak position of the man on 12. Black's man on 3 holds

DIAGRAM 4.--White to Move and Win.

him in check without being impaired in his effectiveness towards the center of the board. If Black had the move, White could not win at all, as he would be unable to dislodge Black's Kings. As it is, he wins by means of a sacrifice which often occurs in endings with 4 Kings against 3.
Black White

(1) ... 14-9
(2) 1-5 9-13
(3) 5-1 11-15
(4) 2-6 10-14
(5) 1-5 15-18
(6) 5-1

DIAGRAM 5.

It would not help Black to play 6-2 on account of 13-9; (7) 5-1, 9-5; (8) 2-6, 14-17; (9) 6-2, 17-13; (10) 2-6, 18-15; (11) 6-2, 15-10, etc.
(6) ... 14-9
(7) 6-2 9-5
(8) 2-6 18-15
(9) 6-2 15-10

This is the important move, which forces the win.
(10) 2-6

If 2-7, White exchanges by 13-9
(10) ... 10-7

Only with this pretty sacrifice can White win the game. After (11) 3-10 White plays 5-9 and should Black answer (12) 6-2, White would get "two for one" by 9-6. Therefore, Black can do no better than play (12) 10-15, 9-2; (13) 15-19, etc., and get a King in each double corner. White then wins as explained in the chapter on elementary endings.

Fourth position results in a draw only when the man is held on 12 or 21, according to whether the weaker side is Black or White. In third position it is useless to hold the man on the above squares, but sometimes a draw is obtained by holding him on 20 or 13.

In defending a game with two Kings against two Kings and a man, the weaker side must have the move in the system in which the man is pinned. The following position for instance is drawn with White on the move.

DIAGRAM 6.

Black, on the move, would win by (1) 13-17, 22-13; (2) 14-9.

In Diagram 7 the drawing move is 27-31. The game ought to run like this:
(2) 20-24 23-27
(3) 24-28 27-32
(4) 30-26 31-27
(5) 22-18 27-24

DIAGRAM 7.--WHITE TO MOVE.
(6) 26-23 24-20

and White moves back and forth between 24 and 20. In the position of Diagram 105 White draws by:
(1) ... 23-19
(2) 28-32 19-24
(3) 7-2 24-19
(4) 2-6 19-24
(5) 6-9 24-19
(6) 9-14 19-24
(7) 14-17 15-19

DIAGRAM 8.--WHITE TO MOVE.

Changing the guard
(8) 17-22 19-23

and Black can make no progress.

THE FIFTH POSITION

White is on the move, and it is evident that he loses if he moves the man on 27 permitting black to reply 11-15. The only way to save the game is to sacrifice the man on 20 by 20-16. The following play would ensue.

DIAGRAM 9.
(2) 11-2O 27-23
(3) 20-24 22-18
(4) 24-27 18-9
(5) 10-14

Preventing 23-18
(5) ... 9-6
(6) 27-31 6-2K
(7) 31-27 2-6

White cannot save the piece and so he runs his opponent.
(8) 27-18 6-9
(9) 13-17 19-15
(10) 18-11 9-18
(11) 17-22 18-25
(12) 11-15 25-22

Drawn. White would lose by 21-17, as after (13) 15-18, 17-13; (14) 18-14, 25-22; (15) 12-16 he cannot gain the double corner.

The following has been suggested as a suitable problem to be called SIXTH POSITION.

DIAGRAM 10.--BLACK TO MOVE AND WHITE TO DRAW .

Black plays
(1) 7-2

threatening (2) 3-7 and (3) 15-11. White can prevent this only by
(1) ... 24-20

Now 3-7 would only draw on account of 16-11.

(2) 2-6 20-24
(3) 6-10 24-20

Again 3-7 had to be prevented.

(4) 10-14 20-24
(5) 14-17 24-27

This time 24-20 would have lost, as Black would have replied (6) 17-13, 20-24; (7) 3-7, 12-8; (8) 15-11.

(6) 17-13 27-32

Avoiding 27-24 which would lose by (7) 3-7

(7) 13-9 32-27
(8) 9-14 27-24
(9) 14-18 24-27

Drawn. White has to watch 3-7 and to take care to play 24-20 at the right time so as to exchange 16-11 if 3-7 is played. At the same time he must beware of playing 24-20 when the Black Kings are on squares 15 and 5 or 15 and 13, as otherwise Black would reply 5-9, 20-24; 3-7, 12-8; 15-11

Checkers - The Five Fundamental Positions (Part I)

THE FIVE FUNDAMENTAL POSITIONS

While in the examples of elementary endings given in the previous chapter, the correct method of play was comparatively easy to find, positions with few men often occur which look very simple but which require considerable thought to be handled in the right way. The knowledge of these positions, of which there are five distinctly different types, is essential for any one who desires to become a fair player and they are, therefore, thoroughly explained in the following five characteristic examples.

THE FIRST POSITION

It does not make any difference in the method of play whether the Black man is located as shown in Diagram 1 or on 3, 4, 7, 8, 10, 11 16, 20 or 24.The essential point is that he must not be able to march to the King row without being intercepted by White.

The winning maneuver is this: White turns the Black King out of the double corner in the manner shown in the play from the position of Diagram 1 and thereby compels the Black man to advance, finally forcing an exchange which secures the opposition.

DIAGRAM 1.--White to Move and Win.

This maneuver, as will be evident from a careful study of the position, is possible only in case White has the move. If Black has the move the ending is a draw.

Black White

(1) ... 23-27
(2) 28-32 19-23
(3) 32-28

Black cannot play 12-16, as 27-24 would win a piece.
(3) ... 27-32
(4) 28-24

Again 12-16 is not possible on account of 32-27 winning a piece in three moves.
(4) ... 23-18

DIAGRAM 2.

White played 32-28 Black would exchange by five 24-19 and draw the game.

In the position of the Diagram Black has the choice between 24- 20, 12-16, 24-19 or 24-28, but he loses, no matter what move he makes as demonstrated below.
(A) (5) 24-20 32-27
(6) 20-16 18-15
(7) 16-20 15-18
(8) 12-16 18-15

(B) (5) 12-16 18-15

Now Black cannot play (6) 16-19 because of the exchange 32-27; (6) 16-20 would also lose quickly through 15-18, (7) 24-19, 32- 28, (8) 19-16, 18-23. The best try is (6) 24-28.

Against 15-18 Black would now draw by (7) 16-19, 32-27; (8) 19- 23 .

The only way to win is
(6) ... 15-11

after which Black can do no better than
(7) 16-19 32-27
(8) 28-32 27-31
(9) 32-28 11-16
(10) 19-24 16-19, etc.

(C) (5) 24-19 32-28
(6) 12-16 28-32
(7) 19-24 18-15

and White continues as shown before.
(D) (5) 24-28 18-15
(6) 28-24 32-28
(7) 24-27 15-18
(8) 12-16 28-32
(9) 27-24 18-15

and wins as before by 15-18 in reply to (10) 16-20 or 15-11 in reply to 24-28.

THE SECOND POSITION (See Diagram 3)

White's advantage is that he can crown his two men while Black remains with only one King and two men. The reason why Black cannot use his two men to advantage is that they are pinned on the side of the board while White's men are located in the center where they have much more mobility. All the same White must have the move in order to win, just as in first position.

DIAGRAM 3.--White to Move and Win.
(4) 10-6 18-14
(5) 6-1 14-9
(6) 1-5 9-6
(7) 5-9 6-2
(8) 9-5 2-6
(9) 5-1 6-9
(10) 1-5 9-14
(11) 5-1 14-18
(12) 1-6 18-15
(13) 6-9 15-19
(14) 9-14 27-23
(15) 14-10 23-18
(16) 10-6 18-14
(17) 6-1 14-9
(18) 1-5 9-6
(19) 5-9 6-2
(20) 9-5 2-6
(21) 5-1 6-9
(22) 1-5 9-14
(23) 5-1 14-18
(24) 1-6 18-23
(25) 6-10 23-27
(26) 10-14 19-23
(27) 14-10 23-18
(28) 10-6 18-14
(29) 6-1 14-9
(30) 1-5 22-17

At last White has a position in which he can reduce the ending to one of the fundamental cases by exchange.
(31) 5-14 17-10
(32) 21-25

It will be noticed that through the exchange Black gained to move. White regains it by a second exchange.
(32) ... 10-15
(33) 25-30 15-19
(34) 30-26 27-32
(35) 26-22 19-24
(36) 20-27 32-23

and wins.

Second position as a rule results from a "Bridge position" like the following: Black men on 20, 21, 23, Black King on 26. White men on 30 and 32, White Kings on 15 and 19. Black to move:
(1) 26-31 19-26
(2) 31-22 32-27

and White wins by "second position."

THE CHANGE OF THE MOVE

By the exchanges of men in the foregoing example the move was altered in each case. However, exchanges of pieces often occur which do NOT change the move, and as win or loss in a great number of endings depends upon which player has the move, it is necessary for the beginner to obtain a clear insight into the questions involved. An exchange always alters the move if the capturing piece is recaptured in turn. If a different piece is recaptured, it depends upon the relative position of the captured pieces, whether the move has remained with the same player or gone over to his opponent. For the purpose of calculating the move and its changes it is useful to imagine the Checker board as being composed of two "systems of squares"--the Black system containing the ranks starting with the squares 1, 9, 17 and 25, and the White system containing the other four ranks. If each of the two systems contains an EVEN number of men, the player whose turn to play it is, loses the opposition, that is: his opponent has the move. If the number of men in each system is ODD, the player whose turn to play it is, gains the opposition, that is, he has the move. As the calculation of the move enters only into such positions in which both players have the same number of pieces, it is sufficient to correct the number of men in one of the systems to obtain the desired information. Diagram 4 furnishes an example.

Counting the men of a system, the Black one, for instance, shows their number to be odd. Therefore, the player whose turn it is to play, has the move, which in the present instance

DIAGRAM 4.

secures the win for White and a draw for Black, thus
(A) Black to move

Black White

(1) 8-11

This is apparently Black's best move; if he plays 2-7, White replies 19-15, obtaining a very strong position.
(1) ... 31-26
(2) 2-6 26-22
(3) 6-10 22-18
(4) 11-16 18-15
Draw.

(B) White to move

Black White

(1) ... 31-26
(2) 2-6 26-22
(3) 8-11 24-20
(4) 6-10 22-19
Block.

DIAGRAM 5.

From the above explanation it is evident that in the case of an exchange the move remains unaltered if the captured pieces were located in the same system, and that the move changes if the captured pieces belonged to different systems.

Exceptions to the rule sometimes occur due to a piece having no mobility, as for instance in the position of Diagram 5 where Black, on the move, loses because his man on 28 is blocked.

Beginning Checkers (English: Draughts)

The game of Checkers (English: Draughts)

Draughts is a duel, a battle of ideas. You win your game because your ideas are better, stronger, than of those of him whom you play. This does not mean that you have to be related to Einstein to be a draughts champion. If you have an imagination, know the truth when you see it, and can keep a straight face, then you are half-way there.
Now, ideas about draughts and probably almost anything else come from knowledge, which you can get in two ways. By experience, or by thinking it out for yourself. Many players will tell you experience is the only teacher; and they will point with pride to the fact that they have put in some thirty or forty years, amassing draughts lore. By the time I was in my late 'teens I could usually take these experienced woodpushers and trim them down to size in about half an hour. Even now, it is the really original player, the one who has his own ideas about the game, who gives me the most trouble.
When you go into a fight, of any sort, a main concern must be the battlefield, so to speak. It may be there are danger zones which you must shun, into which you must seek to impel the foe: these should be known. It may be there are key points which, seized, will control the whole sphere of action and will let the course of events be dictated - by you, or by the other player? If we take a look at the board se may get some ideas of this.
You may think that looking only at an empty board will not tell you much about the game -beyond the bare fact that, as draughts is played on all squares of the same hue, all the moves and jumps are done in an oblique direction.

DIAGRAM 1

Look again, and note first that the squares are not all the same - those in the centre of the board are very unlike those around the perimeter. From the centre, it uses only a few moves to get to any square on the board; a few steps and you are at the scene. It is a long way from one side of the board to the other; by the time you get there it may be too late. Apart from speed, the central squares offer a wider scope: from them you can assail or uphold either flank, wherever there is the more profit. In some cases you will switch your attack, or defence, from this flank to that; and usually you will need to pass through the central squares. If these are in your control you can carry out your plan; while if they are ruled by the foe your communications are cut and your men may have to slink around the side-lines, lurking in the shadows until in the end, alone, they are made away with. Control of the centre can mean control of the board.
If the outer squares are less desirable, then of these the squares in the very corners of the board will be even less so and in many cases they are really unsafe. A boxer will not be pinned on the ropes if he can help it - if he is held fast in a corner then he is in dire trouble.
The four corners of a draughts board are not identical. Two of them consist of only one square with one exit from that square: these single corners will as a rule be good places to stay away from. The double corner squares protect each other, and with twin exits will be safe in contrast to the single corners.
Now, all these remarks may give you the idea that by playing towards the centre all the time you can step out along the winning path; but go not so fast. That is the way to ruin. If you move all your men to the centre they will only get in the way of each other and give rise to a jam. A tightly packed group calls forth a pincer movement from the foe. Control is the essential; you occupy the centre by as many men as will gain control, but no more. You get control when your opponent is unable to move on to any of the centre squares and so is forced into the less favoured areas of the board. This is in fact your ultimate goal: to drive the enemy into the wilderness where he shall perish. Central control is a means to this end.
We can stress this view of the board, by contrasting the action of a king to that of a man. A king surveys the board in all directions, and the power of a king may be felt near and far. Not so a man, which from the first sees a vista rapidly waning in size and scope; at each step the range narrows, the danger grows, and so often the short life is put out long ere there is any chance to be a king. This is why it is not wise to let a man that is well advanced come to be fixed on the side of the board; there it will be cut off from comrades and be of no use, perhaps for the rest of
the game, and the time and effort spent in advancing it will have been wasted.
A chain of squares across the board forms an oblique line. Perhaps we ca call such lines diagonals - after all, that is what they are. As you will soon see, there are seven diagonals. However, only one of them is quite straight from end to end; that is the diagonal which extends from single corner to single corner, thus:

DIAGRAM 2

It may be as well to estimate the nature of a diagonal you intend to occupy or control. A diagonal may affect the power of a piece just as we find a square to do. The most obvious effect that the single corner diagonal has is that it cuts the board into halves, as it were. It divides your forces from those of the foe. Seen from this angle, at the start of a game only one of your twelve men is already in the enemy area; three are on neutral ground. In playing an attacking game these men will be brought into action with little delay, you may guess, and you will be right.
The single corner diagonal is the line of defence (we can call it the D-line) that separates the two armies: to gain control of this line is to take the initiative; to cross it is to begin the attack.
In the following set-up neither side takes any risks and control i shared.

DIAGRAM 3

The D-line

If the single corner diagonal is defensive in character, then a line which cuts across it and through the centre of the board must clearly be termed a line of attack: any activity along this line signifies aggression. This is the A-line.
In Diagram 5, the Blacks occup their own A-line and in that way control it. Whether they also control White's A-line will depend on the placing of the White men, which I do not show.Wherever they are,

DIAGRAM 4

The A-line

DIAGRAM 5
A-line control

one thing is plain - they cannot be on the like squares on White’s side of the the board, as both armies cannot be attacking at the same time along their own A-line. In other words, the player who first engages in an A-line attack takes the lead. The opponent must reply in some other way.
In both Diagrams 3 and 5, did you notice the extra man at the base? Though this man takes no active part in commanding the diagonal yet the added strength is desirable, for it is the base which the opponent will attack.
If the base can be destroyed the whole structure may break up.
It is here that we have the case for the squares at the outer edges of the board. A man on such a square is immune from direct 'capture' (the word often used by draughts players to denote a jump; yet the act of leaping over an enemy piece surely symbolizes 'over thy dead body' - but this is by the way). A man at the edge of the board is in a position to support other men which may form a chain of some power. A strong player will in this way transform into a weapon what might have been a defect.

I clarify this point because it is one about which most tyros are haz and very few self-styled experts are able to enlighten them on it.
The A and D diagonals are the major lines of attack and defence. You expand the power and scope of your men when you fill and control vital lines with them, so it is, of course, this you will try to do.
The diagonal which runs this side of the A-line has by contrast much less import; for the greater part of its length points to the side of the board.
It’s best squares are those at the edges, which may be used to support more active pieces. The B-line (the name comes easily to it) is a diagonal with weaknesses, which a clever opponent will often make use of for his own ends.
One of the more potent ways is for the foe to place a man on the square which intersects your D- and B-lines, dominating both and undermining your A-line also. Beware of danger at the spot marked X!
Most of the C-lin runs towards the centre and so it is stronger than the nearby B-line, and as also this part of the C-line intersects the attacking A-line it can be termed an important diagonal. I need hardly say that the square at which the A- and C-lines meet and cross is of great value in formational play, both in attack and in counter-attack. It is a key square, and now you know why.

DIAGRAM 6

The weak B-line

DIAGRAM 7

The C-Line

The lines E and F are for the most part defensive, supporting as they do activity along the D-line. This is their main utility

DIAGRAM 8

The E-line

DIAGRAM 9

The F-line

If you look at Diagram 3, you will see that both sides occupy their E-lines, and this is a typical set-up.Ending our alphabetical trip along the diagonals, we arrive at G:

DIAGRAM 10

The fact that the G-line has almost all the features of the A-line tempts one to regard it as a line of attack, until we realise that what is our G-line is also the opponent's A-line. Any attacks along this line may be expected to stem from the opposite side of the board rather than from our side. However, if we first set up a strong formation along our A-line then an attack along the G-line can be effectual, thus:

DIAGRAM 11

Here, Black advances two men along the G-diagonal with the powerful support of the formation shown before, at Diagram 5. This is about the best way to conduct a G-line attack.
In general, an advance early in the game along the G-line serves only to forestall enemy activity and is a defensive measure. In Diagram 12 below, Black has thrown away the natural advantages of having the right to move first and so make the first threat, and here plays for safe defence.

DIAGRAM 12

Around the early nineteenth century, most of the leading Masters thought that starting off a game in such a way as this would give Black a weak formation. Most of the moderns consider it a good method of opening. This may seem just another case of the light of present-day knowledge illumin- ating the dark ages. Not so. The truth is that the old-timers held a view of the word 'weak' not at all like that of the modern players. To them, a weak opening was one which promised few chances of getting a win, though it might be safe enough merely to get a draw - weakness denoted lack of opport- unity rather than danger - the nineteenth-century players thought the proper aim in playing draughts was to win the game. Nowadays, the view is that the player should first and foremost play to avoid defeat, that is to say, play for a drawn result. Of course, if an opportunity to win should appear (and it IS by chance) then go for it, but keep the draw in sight at all times.
To the modernist then, an opening is not weak if it is safe for a draw, even though it may offer virtually no chances to win.
My money is on the old-timers in this. I play the game to win. I make the chances. I win all the games I can, and I do not wait for chances to win. I make the chances. Maybe that is why I am Champion. However, I have the perfect system for anybody who wants to become unbeatable at the game, and it is this. Do not play. Then you can't lose.
If we now sum up our survey of the squares and diagonals, we must come to see very clearly that as the squares often determine the value of the pieces, so the action of the pieces as a whole may determine the character and strength of the diagonals - a diagonal is strong because it allows the build-up of telling formational patterns. It might be useful to state generally that, early in the game, when we have available numbers of men to form chains of attack or defence, then the diagonals are of paramount importance. Late in the game, when forces are dwindling to a few scattered units, then the individual squares come into their own.
To master these features of the board is a basic ‘must’ in pursuing a grasp of the mysteries of the game. You can hardly overdo this, you cannot know your board too well. Whatever plans you may conceive, however grand the scale, if they do not take into account the contours of the field of battle then they will not work out. The successful boxer knows how to use the ring.
You must know how to use the board.
Here is a composite picture of the seven diagonals, see from the point of view of each player. Study this well.

THE GAME OF CHECKERS

THE RULES OF THE GAME

The game of Checkers (English: Draughts) is played on the 32 black or white squares of the Chess board by
two opponents, each of whom has twelve men of the same kind. The object of the game is to capture all
opposing men or to block them so that they cannot move.

The original position of board and men is shown in Diagram 1. It will be seen that the board is placed in
such a way that the players have a vacant square at their lower right hand corner. This corner is called the
DOUBLE CORNER because two men are located in its immediate neighborhood while the left hand corner,
the SINGLE CORNER, is occupied by only one man.

The squares of the Checker board are usually described by numbers as shown in Diagram 86. This is a rather
crude method when compared with the simple notation by means of a system of coordinates as used in Chess,
but as it is universally employed in Checker books and Checker columns in daily papers it will be adhered to
in the following explanation of the game.

The black men are placed on the squares 1 to 12, the white men on the squares 21 to 32. The first move must
invariably be made by the player of the black men.

Diagram 1

The move of the Checker men is a diagonal step forward, one square at a time. If a hostile man is in his way and if the square beyond the hostile man is vacant, he must capture him by jumping over him on to the vacant square, and he must continue capturing from the square on which he lands as long as this is possible according to the above rule. Captured men are removed from the board.

If a man reaches the opposite edge of the board he automatically becomes a King and must be "crowned" by the opponent, who must place another man on top of him. A King may move and capture backward as well as forward. A man, who reaches the "King row" in capturing, cannot, however, continue capturing on the same move with the newly made King.

The position of Diagram 2 may serve to illustrate the above rules. White, on the move, plays 14−9. Black
must capture this man with the man on 5 who jumps on to 14.

Diagram 2

White then sacrifices another man by 23−18 forcing Black to reply 14−23. Now White captures the three men on 23, 15 and 7 with his man on 26, and Black, before making his next move, must crown White's man who has just reached the King's row. He will naturally move his man 8, as otherwise White would capture him with the King on 3.

If a player overlooks the possibility of a capture his opponent has the right to remove the man who should have made the capture, from the board. This procedure is called "huffing" and does not constitute a play.
Instead of huffing a player may ask the opponent to retract his move and to make the capture.

When neither player can force a win the game is considered a draw. When one side appears to be stronger and refuses to accept a draw offered the player of the weaker side can require the win to be demonstrated within 40 moves; otherwise the game is drawn.

ELEMENTARY TACTICS

The first thing a Checker player has to know is what superiority in material or position is required to FORCE a win in the ending. The most elementary case is the one shown in Diagram 3, in which White wins by playing 32−27. With this move White takes the opposition or as most Checker players call it, White has the "move." Whatever Black replies he is forced to the edge of the board and finally he is obliged to let White capture his King. Supposing Black plays (2) 26−22, in order to reach the double corner, where he would be safe as he could indefinitely move from 5 to 1 and from 1 to 5, then White continues with (2) ...,27−23, preventing (3) 22−18 which would gain the road to the double corner. After (3) 22−17, 23−l8; Black has to retreat to the edge by 17−13 or 17−21, and White, by playing 18−14, or 18−22 pins the black King so that he cannot move without being captured. If it had been Black's move in the position of the diagram, he would have gained the opposition by 26−31 and White would have been compelled to retire to the double corner and to draw by 32−28, 28−32, etc.

Diagram 3

With one King entrenched in the double corner it takes two Kings to force the win. In the position of Diagram 4 for instance White would win as follows:

Black White
(1) ... 19−24
(2) 32−28 23−19
(3) 28−32 24−28
(4) 32−27 28−32
(5) 27−31 19−15
(6) 31−26 15−18
(7) 26−31 18−22

In the ending THREE KINGS AGAINST TWO KINGS the most favorable spots for the weaker player are the two double corners; but the three Kings will always win when handled right.

Diagram 4

The method which has to be employed will be evident from the play in Diagram 5. In order to win Black must exchange one King; the position is then reduced to that of Diagram 4.

Diagram 5

If it were White's move, Black would easily win; for after (1) ..., 27−32; (2) 19−24, 9−5; (3) 10−6, White cannot avoid the exchange. For instance: (3) ..., 5−1; (4) 24−19. The problem reduces itself therefore to changing the move from Black to White. This is accomplished by:

Black White
(1) 15−18 27−32
(2) 19−24 9−5
(3) 10−14

Threatening 24−27. White can only reply

(3) ... 32−28
(4) 24−27 5−1
(5) 14−9, etc., as above.

If the weaker side does not control both double corners the exchange can be forced much more easily, as an experiment will quickly show.

Diagram 6

Sometimes the stronger side has an occasion to give up two Kings for one thereby forcing a position similar to that of Diagram 3. Diagram 6 offers an example:

Black on the move wins in 5 moves, thus:

(1) 16−19 27−31
(2) 20−24 32−27
(3) 28−32 27x20
(4) 19−24 20x27
(5) 32x23

and White is pinned.

With three Kings against four a player can sometimes offer prolonged resistance. But finally the stronger player will always be able to force an exchange which secures the victory. In the position of Diagram 7 for instance Black will proceed as follows:

(1) 18−15 19−24

It would not help to play 27−24, as Black would reply 14−17 and exchange on the next move by 10−14.

(2) 11−16

limiting White's mobility.

(2) ... 23−26

In answer to 24−20 Black would play 15−19.

(3) 16−19 24−28
(4) 14−18 26−30
(5) 19−23 28−32
(6) 15−19 27−31

Diagram 7

Not 30−25 on account of 18−22.

(7) 10−14 31−26
(8) 14−17 26−31
(9) 17−22 31−27
(10) 19−16 27−24
(11) 16−19 and wins.

If, on the 10th move, White played 27−31 instead of 27−24, the game might proceed as follows:

(11) 18−15 32−28
(12) 15−19 28−32
(13) 22−26 31x22
(14) 23−27 32x23
(15) 19x17

These possibilities of exchanging "two for two" should always be looked for as they often occur, enabling awin within a few moves.

Seven Card Stud Hi/Lo Poker

Seven Card Stud Hi/Lo
Introduction
Seven Card Stud Hi/Lo 8 or Better (Seven Card Stud Hi/Lo), a version of Poker for between 2-10 players, is today among the most popular variations of Poker. The game has gained popularity, both in the US and abroad, due to its true Poker feel and highly challenging game play.
A hand of Seven Card Stud Hi/Lo consists of up to five Betting Rounds. Initially, each player places an "Ante" (opening Bet) to "seed" the Pot. Each player is then dealt two initial, private, facedown "Hole Cards" and one, face up "Door Card". Players who remain active (do not Fold), throughout an entire hand of Seven Card Stud Hi/Lo, will receive a total of three facedown cards and four face up cards.
After the fifth and final Betting Round is complete, there is a "Showdown". The players that create the highest and lowest (with no card higher in value than eight) ranking (valued), five card, Poker hands, using any combination of five of their seven total cards, split the Pot 50%-50% (if one player creates both the highest and lowest ranking Poker hands, that player receives the entire Pot).


The Ante
Before the first deal of the cards, each player "Sitting-in" places an initial Ante (opening Bet), in the center of the table, to "seed" the Pot.

The Hole and Door Cards - The First Deal
The Dealer distributes two facedown "Hole Cards" and one face up "Door Card". The cards are dealt in a clockwise fashion, one at a time, starting with the first player to the left of the Dealer.

The First Betting RoundBetting Limit:
1/2 of the Table's Lower Limit Stake
The player with the lowest ranking (valued) Door Card showing, by suit, initiates the first Betting Round. This player is required to Bet no less than the "Bring-in" amount (half of the table's Lower Limit Stake), up to the table's Lower Limit Stake. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn.

"Fourth Street" - The Second Deal
Each active player (has not Folded), is dealt one additional card, face up.

The Second Betting RoundBetting Limit: Lower Limit Stake
The active player with the highest ranking card(s) showing initiates the second Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn.
The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Lower Limit Stake;
In the event that a player is "Showing" a Pair, with their two face up cards, at the beginning of the second Betting Round, players have the option to Bet in multiples of either that table's Lower or Higher Limit Stake. If a player Bets at the table's Higher Limit Stake, all following players are required to continue Betting at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

"Fifth Street" - The Third Deal
Each active player is dealt one additional card, face up.

The Third Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The active player with the highest ranking card(s) showing initiates the third Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

"Sixth Street" - The Fourth Deal
Each active player is dealt one additional card, face up.

The Fourth Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The active player with the highest ranking card(s) showing initiates the fourth Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

"The River" - The Fifth and Final Deal
Each active player is dealt one additional card, face down.
Occasionally, there are not enough cards in the deck to give each player their own final seventh card, the River, face down. In this case, one card will be placed, face up, in the center of the table. This "Community Boardcard" is shared by all active players.

The Fifth and Final Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The active player with the highest valued card(s) showing begins the fifth Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

The Showdown
Once the fifth Betting Round has been completed, there is a "Showdown" (if more than one player remains active - see the Showdown below). In the Showdown, each active player combines any five of their seven total cards, to create:
a. The lowest ranking (valued), five card, Poker hand possible, with no card higher in value than eight ; Or
b. The highest ranking, five card, Poker hand possible; Or
c. Both the highest and lowest ranking Poker hands possible.
The two active players who create the highest and lowest ranking Poker hands split the Pot 50%-50%, minus the "Rake". "All-in" Policy applies to all game Pots.
a. Should one active player create both the highest and lowest ranking Poker hands, that player receives the entire Pot, minus any All-in Pots and the Rake.
b. If there is no qualifying low hand (with no card higher in value than eight), the player with the highest ranking hand receives the entire Pot, minus any All-in Pots and the Rake.

Seven Card Stud Poker (Rules)

Seven Card Stud
Introduction
Seven Card Stud, a version of Poker for between 2-10 players, is today among the most popular variations of Poker. The game has gained popularity, both in the US and abroad, due to its classic Poker style and simple game rules.
A hand of Seven Card Stud consists of up to five Betting Rounds. Initially, each player places an "Ante" (opening Bet) to "seed" the Pot. Each player is then dealt two initial, private, facedown "Hole Cards" and one, face up "Door Card". Players who remain active (do not Fold), throughout an entire hand of Seven Card Stud, will receive a total of three facedown cards and four face up cards.
After the fifth and final Betting Round is complete, there is a "Showdown". The player who creates the highest ranking (valued), five card, Poker hand, using any combination of five of their seven total cards, wins the Pot.


The Blind Bets
Before the first deal of the cards, each player "Sitting-in" places an initial Ante (opening Bet), in the center of the table, to "seed" the Pot.
The Hole and Door Cards - The First Deal
The Dealer distributes two facedown "Hole Cards" and one face up "Door Card". The cards are dealt in a clockwise fashion, one at a time, starting with the first player to the left of the Dealer.

The First Betting Round Betting Limit:
1/2 of the Table's Lower Limit Stake
The player with the lowest ranking (valued) Door Card showing, by suit, initiates the first Betting Round. This player is required to Bet no less than the "Bring-in" amount (half of the table's Lower Limit Stake), up to the table's Lower Limit Stake. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn.

"Fourth Street" - The Second Deal
Each active player (has not Folded), is dealt one additional card, face up.

The Second Betting Round Betting Limit: Lower Limit Stake
The active player with the highest ranking card(s) showing initiates the second Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn.
The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Lower Limit Stake;
In the event that a player is "Showing" a Pair, with their two face up cards, at the beginning of the second Betting Round, players have the option to Bet in multiples of either that table's Lower or Higher Limit Stake. If a player Bets at the table's Higher Limit Stake, all following players are required to continue Betting at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

"Fifth Street" - The Third Deal
Each active player is dealt one additional card, face up.

The Third Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The active player with the highest ranking card(s) showing initiates the third Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

"Sixth Street" - The Fourth Deal
Each active player is dealt one additional card, face up.

The Fourth Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The active player with the highest ranking card(s) showing initiates the fourth Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

"The River" - The Fifth and Final Deal
Each active player is dealt one additional card, face down.
Occasionally, there are not enough cards in the deck to give each player their own final seventh card, the River, face down. In this case, one card will be placed, face up, in the center of the table. This "Community Boardcard" is shared by all active players.

The Fifth and Final Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The active player with the highest ranking card(s) showing initiates the fifth Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

The Showdown
Once the fifth Betting Round has been completed, there is a "Showdown" (if more than one player remains active - see the Showdown below). In the Showdown, each active player combines any five of their seven total cards, to create the highest ranking, five card, Poker hand possible (see the Hand Ranking Chart section of this site). The active player who creates the highest ranking Poker hand wins the Pot, minus the Rake.

Omaha Hi/Lo Poker - (Rules)

Omaha Hi/Lo
Introduction
Omaha Hi/Lo 8 or Better (Omaha Hi/Lo), a game for between 2-10 players, has gained popularity, both in the US and abroad, due to its highly challenging game play and many facetted game rules.
A hand of Omaha Hi/Lo consists of up to four Betting Rounds. After the placing of the Blind Bets (see The Blind Bets below), each player receives four private, facedown "Pocket Cards". Throughout the hand, five face-up "Community Boardcards" are placed in the center of the table, to be shared by all the players.
After the fourth and final Betting Round is complete, there is a "Showdown". The two players that create the highest and lowest (with no card higher in value than eight) ranking (valued), five card, Poker hands, using any combination of two of their four Pocket Cards and any three of the five Community Boardcards, split the Pot 50%-50% (if one player creates both the highest and lowest ranking Poker hands, that player receives the entire Pot

Omaha Hi/Lo
The Blind Bets
The first player "Sitting-in", in a clockwise fashion to the left of the Dealer, places the "Small Blind" Bet (half the table's Lower Limit Stake - on tables with Stakes higher than $1 the Small Blind is rounded down to the nearest dollar) (see Betting Rounds & Limits below).
The second player Sitting-in, in a clockwise fashion to the left of the Dealer, places the "Big Blind" Bet (equal to the table's Lower Limit Stake).

The Pocket Cards - The First Deal
The Dealer distributes four facedown "Pocket Cards" to each player. The cards are dealt in a clockwise fashion, one at a time, starting with the player to the left of the Big Blind.

The First Betting Round Betting Limit: Lower Limit Stake
The first player to the left of the Big Blind initiates the first Betting Round (see the Betting Rounds & Limits below). The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn. In this Betting Round, each player is required to at least "Call" the Big Blind, in order to remain in the game. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Lower Limit Stake.

"The Flop" - The Second Deal
The Dealer places the first three "Community Boardcards", face-up, in the center of the table. These cards are shared by all the players.

The Second Betting Round Betting Limit: Lower Limit Stake
The first "active" (has not Folded) player to the left of the Dealer initiates the second Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each active player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Lower Limit Stake.

"The Turn" - The Third Deal
The Dealer places a fourth Community Boardcard, face-up, in the center of the table.

The Third Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The first active player to the left of the Dealer initiates the third Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each active player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

"The River" - The Fourth & Final Deal
The Dealer places a fifth Community Boardcard, face-up, in the center of the table.

The Fourth and Final Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The first active player to the left of the Dealer initiates the fourth Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each active player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake

The Showdown
Once the fourth Betting Round has been completed, there is a "Showdown" (if more than one player remains active - see The Showdown below). In the Showdown, each active player combines any combination of two of their four Pocket Cards, and any three of the five

Community Boardcards, to create:
a. The lowest ranking (valued), five card, Poker hand possible, with no card higher in value than eight (see the Poker Hand Ranking Chart section of this site); Or
b. The highest ranking, five card, Poker hand possible; Or
c. Both the highest and lowest ranking Poker hands possible

The two active players who create the highest and lowest ranking Poker hands split the Pot 50%-50%, minus the "Rake"
a. Should one active player create both the highest and lowest ranking Poker hands, that player receives the entire Pot, minus any All-in Pots and the Rake.
b. If there is no qualifying low hand (with no card higher in value than eight), the player with the highest ranking hand receives the entire Pot, minus any All-in Pots and the Rake.

Texas Hold 'em Poker - (Rules)

Texas Hold 'em
Introduction
Texas Hold'em, a version of Poker for between 2-10 players, is today among the most popular variations of Poker. The game has gained popularity, both in the US and abroad, due to its fast paced play and simple game rules. A hand of Texas Hold'em consists of up to four Betting Rounds. After the placing of the Blind Bets (see The Blind Bets below), each player receives two private, facedown "Pocket Card". Throughout the hand, five face-up "Community Boarfcards" are placed in the center of the table, to be shared by all the players.
After the fourth and final Betting Round is complete, there is a "Shutdown". The player who creates the highest ranking (valued), five card, Poker hand, using any combination of their two Pocket Cards and the five Community Boardcards, wins the Pot.

The Blind Bets
The first player "Sitting-in", in a clockwise fashion to the left of the Dealer, places the "Small Blind" Bet (half the table's Lower Limit Stake - on tables with Stakes higher than $1 the Small Blind is rounded down to the nearest dollar) (see Betting Rounds & Limits below);
The second player Sitting-in, in a clockwise fashion to the left of the Dealer, places the "Big Blind" Bet (equal to the table's Lower Limit Stake).

The Pocket Cards - The First Deal
The Dealer distributes two facedown "Pocket Cards" to each player. The cards are dealt in a clockwise fashion, one at a time, starting with the player to the left of the Big Blind.

The First Betting RoundBetting Limit: Lower Limit Stake
The first player to the left of the Big Blind initiates the first Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn. In this Betting Round, each player is required to at least "Call" the Big Blind, in order to remain in the game.The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Lower Limit Stake.

"The Flop" - The Second Deal
The Dealer places the first three "Community Boardcards", face-up, in the center of the table. These cards are shared by all the players at the table.

The Second Betting RoundBetting Limit: Lower Limit Stake
The first "active" (has not Folded) player to the left of the Dealer initiates the second Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each active player acting in turn.

"The Turn" - The Third Deal
The Dealer places a fourth Community Boardcard, face-up, in the center of the table.

The Third Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The first active player to the left of the Dealer initiates the third Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each active player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

"The River" - The Fourth & Final Deal
The Dealer places a fifth Community Boardcard, face-up, in the center of the Table.

The Fourth and Final Betting RoundBetting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The first active player to the left of the Dealer initiates the fourth Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each active player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

The Showdown
Once the fourth Betting Round has been completed, there is a "Showdown" (if more than one player remains active - see The Showdown below). In the Showdown, each active player combines any combination of their two Pocket Cards, and the five Community Boardcards, to create the highest ranking (valued), five card, Poker hand possible .
The active player who creates the highest ranking Poker hand wins the Pot, minus the "Rake".

Omaha Hi Poker - (Rules)

Introduction
Omaha Hi, a version of Poker for between 2-10 players, has gained popularity, both in the US and abroad, due to its fast paced play and relatively simple game rules.
A hand of Omaha Hi consists of up to 4 Betting Rounds. After the placing of the Blind Bets (see The Blind Bets below), each player receives four private, facedown "Pocket Cards". Throughout the hand, five face-up "Community Boardcards" are placed in the center of the table, to be shared by all the players.
After the fourth and final Betting Round is complete, there is a "Showdown". The player who creates the highest ranking (valued), five card, Poker hand, using any combination of two of their four Pocket Cards and any three of the five Community Boardcards, wins the Pot.

The Blind Bets
The first player "Sitting-in", in a clockwise fashion to the left of the Dealer, places the "Small Blind" Bet (half the table's Lower Limit Stake - on tables with Stakes higher than $1 the Small Blind is rounded down to the nearest dollar) (see Betting Rounds & Limits below);
The second player Sitting-in, in a clockwise fashion to the left of the Dealer, places the "Big Blind" Bet (equal to the table's Lower Limit Stake).

The Pocket Cards - The First Deal
The Dealer distributes four facedown "Pocket Cards" to each player. The cards are dealt in a clockwise fashion, one at a time, starting with the player to the left of the Big Blind.

The First Betting Round Betting Limit:
Lower Limit Stake
The first player to the left of the Big Blind initiates the first Betting Round (see the Betting Rounds & Limits below). The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each player acting in turn. In this Betting Round, each player is required to at least "Call" the Big Blind, in order to remain in the game. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Lower Limit Stake.

"The Flop" - The Second Deal
The Dealer places the first three "Community Boardcards", face-up, in the center of the table. These cards are shared by all the players.

The Second Betting Round Betting Limit: Lower Limit Stake
The first "active" (has not Folded) player to the left of the Dealer begins the second Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each active player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Lower Limit Stake.

"The Turn" - The Third Deal
The Dealer places a fourth Community Boardcard, face-up, in the center of the table.

The Third Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The first active player to the left of the Dealer begins the third Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each active player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

"The River" - The Fourth & Final Deal
The Dealer places a fifth Community Boardcard, face-up, in the center of the table.

The Fourth and Final Betting Round Betting Limit: Higher Limit Stake
The first active player to the left of the Dealer begins the fourth Betting Round. The Betting Round then proceeds, in a clockwise fashion, around the table, with each active player acting in turn. The Betting in this Round is set at the table's Higher Limit Stake.

The Showdown
Once the fourth Betting Round has been completed, there is a "Showdown" (if more than one player remains active - see The Showdown below). In the Showdown, each active player combines any combination of two of their four Pocket Cards, and any three of the five Community Boardcards, to create the highest ranking (valued), five card, Poker hand possible

Seven-Card Stud Poker - Game Rules

Seven Card Stud Strategy

General Strategy:

Seven Card Stud is a HIGH card game. More winning hands are decided by the highest pair of two pair or just the highest pair, than by straights, flushes and other big hands. So if you start with a straight or flush draw, it should have at least two high cards or at least one card that is higher than anything up on the board. These draw hands and low pair starting hands need to improve or turn a high pair quickly to justify continued play. Any time your high hand is beaten on the board, fold, unless you think you still have the best draw hand. Fast play early high hands ( that could win without improvement) to thin out the competition. Slow play draw hands to keep other players in to increase the pot odds in case you hit.

Definitions:

HIGH CARDS - 10 thru A .

LOW CARDS - 2 thru 9

SPLIT PAIR - Starting hand with one of your pair cards down and the other up.

CONCEALED PAIR - Starting hand with both of your pair cards in the hole and your side card kicker up.

DOOR CARD - The exposed upcard of a starting hand.

DEAD CARDS - Cards that have been revealed and no longer in the deck.

FAST PLAY - Bet, raise and re-raise to get as many other players out as possible.

SLOW PLAY - Just check and call along to keep other players in the game and increase the pot odds.

CHECK-FOLD - Check when you can and fold if you are bet into. Gladly accept all free cards offered.

Playable Starting Hands:

HIGH TRIPS - (AAA down to 101010). Fast play these. Your opponents will put you on a high pair.
LOW TRIPS - (999 down to 222). Slow play until your 5th street bet. Keep 'em guessing.
HIGH PAIR - (AA, KK, QQ, JJ, 1010). Fast play these, split or concealed, if they are not overcarded on the board. Try to narrow the field and play fast until threatened by a higher hand.
LOW PAIR/ High Kicker - Slow play split or concealed low pairs with a kicker that is higher than any upcard on the board. Fold this hand if two or more of your key cards are dead. Check-fold if you don't get trips or two pair on the next card.
CONCEALED LOW PAIR/ No High Kicker - Slow play for trips on 4th street. Fold if one or both of your pair cards are dead. Check-fold if you don't make trips or two pair on the next card.
HIGH OVERCARDS - Two or three high cards that are higher than anything on the board. Slow play and check-fold if they don't make a high pair on the next card.
HIGH 3 CARD FLUSH - (2h 10h Kh). Must have at least two high cards. Fold if three or more cards of your suit are dead. Slow play and check-fold if you don't make a four card flush or a high pair on the next card.
HIGH 3 CARD STRAIGHT - (9 10 J ) to Q K A). Slow play and check-fold if you don't make a four card straight or a high pair on the next card.
ANY 3 CARDS TO A STRAIGHT FLUSH - (5d 7d 9d). Fold if four or more of your key straight and flush cards are dead. Slow play and check-fold if you don't make any four cards to a straight or a four card flush.

Strategy Tips:

When you start with a high pair, fast play to eliminate as many players as possible.Slow play starting draw hands like three to a straight or a flush. You want to keep other players in to build the pot odds.Slow play starting trips until the fifth card. You want some players around with this powerful starting hand.Usually don't begin with a small pair unless they are concealed or your sidecard can beat the board.Don't play three to a low straight or a low flush.Watch the board closely for key cards that can seriously diminish your chances of making a good hand and for opponents hands that look dangerous. Play cautiously and fold out early if it looks like the tide is turning against you.Beware of the paired door card. If an opponent is playing a pair in his starting hand, and pairs his door card (first upcard), the odds are two out of three that the door card is part of his pair. A paired door card presents a strong possibility that the holder has a dangerous set of trips.Unless you are playing a strong draw hand, usually fold if your complete hand is beaten on the board by an opponent's upcards. Try to find reasons to fold both your starting hands and those that develop on the later streets. Look for a dead card in the denomination that you need and for two or three dead cards in the suit that you are drawing to. Look for too much strong competition developing for the winning hand. When you can't find reasons to fold, you can then proceed aggressively.. Beware of multiple "check-arounds" on 7th St. - Straight and flush draws often hit on the last card and there is usually so little in the pot that yor last card pair of Aces etc. is not a very good bet. Study your opponents, especially when you are not playing hands and can pay careful attention. Do they find more hands to play than they fold? Do they bluff? Can they be bluffed? Do they have any "tells" (give away mannerisms) that disclose information about their hands etc.Get caught bluffing once in a while. It is a way to vary your play and not be too predictable. You win pots that you don't deserve when your bluff works. You lose a few chips when it doesn't work but it will get you calls from weaker hands down the line when you are really strong and need the action.The first four cards are the major key to winning at Seven Card Stud games. If your starting hands develop according to plan, you can be a strong favorite to win. If they don't, you get out early and escape the expensive second best experience. The three card starting hands recommended above are those with the best chance of producing a dominant four card hand. Good four card hands that are carefully played don't always win but they win a lot more than the others.

Poker Online

Introduction

There are well over 1000 online casinos, many of which offer bonuses to entice you to 'play' their games.
My aim is to show you how to obtain and withdraw the best bonuses on offer simply by playing 'perfect' Blackjack.
Even if you have never played Blackjack before, I will make it so simple even a child could follow the instructions.
By playing 'perfect' Blackjack we reduce the casinos advantage to 0.5%, and this is all we need to profit from casino
bonuses.
Just the 15 casinos recommended in this guide offer a total of .4600 in bonuses, and there are plenty more on offer.
Follow this guide carefully now and you will gain the best part of $200 profit from the first casino you play.
Remember to use the casinos and links provided in this guide - these have been carefully researched to ensure you
play for the easiest-to-withdraw bonuses first and the links ensure you are offered the correct bonuses.
You may be playing for £ Sterling or $ US Dollars depending on the casino - we simply claim the largest bonus on
offer whatever currency it is. The casinos make it easy for you to play in another currency so this is not a problem.

The System/Your First $200

To show you how simple the system is, I will take you step by step through the process of getting your first $200 bonus. Once you have the bonus in your casino account (in a few minutes time) we will then play 'perfect' Blackjack in 'practice' mode before fulfilling the casino terms and conditions which allow you to withdraw your original deposit plus bonus/profit...

Step One - Visit the first casino

You need to visit the first casino, which has been specially chosen as being the easiest casino to profit from, and open your account. Your bonus will be immediately added to your account.

Step Two - Download the casino software

A pop up window usually asks if you want to 'Click OK to download our free Casino while browsing the site' - select OK and download the casino software (only takes a minute or two) and use the 'Open' option. If the pop-up does not appear then click 'Download Now' on the website.

Once the software has downloaded, then install the software to your computer.

Step Three - Open you account and obtain bonus

Click on 'Money Play' when you run the software. You will then need to register to obtain a user name and password. Then 'log-in' and you will see the casino lobby. Click on 'Cashier' (bottom left of the screen) to make your deposit. The casino will double your initial deposit (up to $200). Therefore I recommend depositing $200. If you are based in the UK and use your credit or debit card (recommended) then you will automatically be charged the £ Sterling equivalent.

You will instantly see your balance instantly double. If you deposited $200 you will see your balance is now $400.

You could withdraw your original $200 at this stage and just play with the bonus but I would not encourage this. To be able to withdraw the bonus the casinos terms and conditions require us to give them a certain amount of 'action'. In this case to withdraw a $200 bonus you need to give the casino $4000 of 'action' (20 x bonus). By 'action' we mean turnover, or total stakes, so if you bet $1 at Blackjack, win or lose, you have given the casino $1 of action.

This is why it is important we play 'perfect' Blackjack to lower the casinos advantage to 0.5%. We are not trying to gain a profit, instead we are simply trying to keep most of the bonus. With a casino advantage of only 0.5%, we can play $2000 of Blackjack and lose, on average, only $10.
To illustrate this, below is a screen dump of my own actual deposit history from the first casino you will play. I have obscured the ID numbers for obvious reasons. You can see I deposited 200 ($) on 17 April 2005 at 20:18 using my English £ credit card. You can also see the casino immediately gave me a $200 bonus 24 seconds later...

I spent about 2 hours meeting the casinos 'action' requirement. Then, you can see below, the following evening the casino processed my withdrawal request, refunding one amount to my credit card (the initial deposit) and they posted me a bankers draft for the 'profit'. You can see I withdrew a total of $398.50 - a profit of $198.50. I lost only $1.50 of the $200 bonus by playing 'perfect' Blackjack.

(The amount refunded to my credit card was not an exact $200 because of currency fluctuations as I paid in £ sterling -they could refund up to the amount paid in £ sterling via the credit card)

Step Four - Learning to Play Perfect Blackjack

For those of you who have not played before, read of the rules of Blackjack.

Perfect Blackjack Table - print this page.

Step Five - Practice Mode

Open the casino software and enter practice mode. Open Blackjack and select a 'private' table (so you do not getdistracted with other players). Select the table with the lowest minimum bet. We will normally play Blackjackmultihand asthis will enable you to fulfill the casinos 'action' requirement quicker. At the first casino you can play three handssimultaneously. Our golden rules are:

1 Select a private table.
2 Play multi-hand wherever possible, and;
3 Always bet the lowest unit available (in this case $1).

Now practice playing perfect Blackjack until you get used to playing with the casino software and get used to using the Perfect Blackjack Table.

Step Six - Play for Real

Before playing for real you will need to be ready to keep a tally of every $ or . you wager to enable you to know when you have met the casinos wager requirement.

Print a few copies of the Logging Sheet which is conveniently supplied on the next page. This enables you to record key information before/while you play. You will see from the Example Logging Sheet (on the page after) that it allows you to note the name of the casino you are playing at, together with your account details, and deposit and bonus details. You should also check and record the 'action' requirement i.e. how much you need to bet in order to withdraw any bonus.

The main part of the form allows you to tally each unit you bet. Say for example you are playing multi-hand Blackjack at Casino on Net. This means you are playing 3 hands at a time. Every time you start new hands you will record 'III' on the tally. Each box on the form allows you to tally to 5 so each pair of boxes counts to 10. You can easily see at any point in time where you are in relation to the 'action' requirement.

Remember to add a 'I' to your tally each time you 'Double' or 'Split' a hand as such actions count towards your total as you are putting an extra $1 down each time.

Now you are ready to play out the 'action' requirement that will allow you to withdraw your bonus. Enter the 'play for real' or 'money play' mode at the casino and simply play perfect Blackjack, logging every $ or . you put on the table. Keep playing until you have met the 'action' requirement.

Remember, on average you will lose only 0.5% per hand, so on average after playing through $2000 you should only lose $10. However this is an 'average' not a fact, so sometimes you will do better or worse than this. Do not worry about this because we are dealing in averages. You will make healthy profits at 80% of the casinos you play. Sometimes you will lose but overall you will make a lot of money. If, while playing, you are losing more than average, you can chase losses using a staking plan outlined later in this guide but I do not recommend this.

The first recommended Casino has been specially chosen as the easiest to take a bonus from, as it has extremely fair software, and the lowest action requirement to bonus ratio.

Step Seven - Reaching the 'Action' requirement

When you have met the casinos action requirement I suggest stopping and immediately commence the withdrawal process to obtain your full balance and then move on to the next casino.
You may however want to aim for a higher profit using a staking system explained later in the guide.

Step Eight - Getting your money

If you go the the cashier function in the casino you will be able to request a 'cashout'. If you deposited using a credit or debit card, then it is likely the casino will refund your original deposit to the card. You will have a choice as to the method by which you receive the profit.

Get hold of your money and move on to the next casino!

Other Useful Background Information

Casino Terms and Conditions

Before playing in any other casino, it is important to check the terms and conditions attaching to any bonuses. Such terms will dictate how much 'action' you need to give the casino before being allowed to withdraw the bonus. In addition, the casino may also restrict the games you can play or the types of bets you can make to count towards the 'action' requirement. For example,
some casinos exclude whole games (like roulette and sometimes Blackjack) while others exclude bets such as evens-bets a roulette. By doing this they are trying to push you into 'riskier' bets. Obviously we looking for casinos that allow you to play Blackjack and have the 'action' credited against bonus withdrawal requirements. Check this before depositing funds.

Casinos include in their bonus terms and conditions the wager or 'action' requirement in order to withdraw the bonus. Usually this is expressed as a multiple of the bonus/initial deposit. For example, the casino may state "To cash out the bonus you must wager a minimum of 10 times the bonus." This basically means that to cash out a $200 bonus you will need to give the casino $2000 of action first.

Basically, the advice is to read the 'cash out' policy of the casino and any special bonus 'terms and conditions' before playing to ensure things have not changed.

Ensure you fully understand the wager requirements for withdrawing both your original deposit and any bonus. The aim is to play 'risk free' with the casinos own money without putting your capital at risk. Check the terms very carefully. If you are not sure, contact the casinos customer services to obtain a satisfactory explanation of the condition you are unsure about before you
deposit funds with them. With most casinos you will get a quick courteous reply. If you are unsatisfied with the response - DO NOT use the casino.

Types of Bonus

Many casinos offer more than one type of bonus. It is worth revisiting casinos that offer monthly bonuses (free cash every month!). Many of the casinos you open accounts with will email you details of any repeat offers. Watch out for bonuses like the following:

Bonus on Initial Deposit: This usually take the form of a 'cash-match' deal e.g. deposit $200 and the casino adds $200 to your account.

Deposit Method Bonus: Some casinos offer a small bonus if you deposit funds by a particular method such as Neteller rather than using a credit card. It is a good idea to have an account with Neteller as most casinos accept this deposit method, many offer extra bonuses for using Neteller, and it is also usually the quickest withdrawal method.

Introductory Bonus: Added when you first open an account. Usually quite small but worth having!

Regular/Monthly Bonus: Many casinos offer repeat bonuses each month to entice you back!

Many casinos credit bonuses automatically, and immediately when you make your deposit. You will need to check the terms and conditions though. Some bonuses are credited automatically but after a delay of 24/48 hours. Some bonuses need to be claimed by email or via the casino website within a timescale. Before playing, ensure you have received your bonus. Remember we ideally want to play with the casinos money, not our own.

The worst kind of bonus is only credited once you have given the casino some 'action' based on your deposit. This obviously carries some risk, but once you get used to playing perfect games of Blackjack you will have the confidence to play for such bonuses.

When depositing money at casinos it is worth bearing in mind any 'deposit' bonus offers. You also need to consider any fees for your chosen deposit/withdrawal method from casinos and how quickly you can get your money.

As mentioned above 'Neteller' is favoured by many casinos as a deposit method and is actually good for players as it usually represents the quickest way to deposit and withdraw funds. It is well worth registering to use Neteller at www. neteller.com - you will use it a lot with casinos. You can deposit using credit/debit cards and bank accounts and withdraw by bank transfer (depends where you live) and using an ATM card.

Download or Instant Play?

Most casinos offer a choice of either downloading the casino software to your hard-drive or playing instantly - usually using Flash technology. Always download the software where available. You will find this plays better and some casinos make the download a requirement of the bonus offer. You may have to download 'Multi-Hand' Blackjack as an optional extra but these downloads are usually fairly quick anyway. If you are on a slow internet connection and therefore do not wish to download software you will find many casinos will be happy to send you a CD containing the software on request.

Hard to Remove Bonuses

Some casinos offer bonuses that would not normally qualify for this system because they are impossible to withdraw. The casino may state that you cannot withdraw the bonus ever (but you can withdraw the profits on it). You may also need to give the casino the full bonus amount in action before making a withdrawal.

Playing perfect games of Blackjack is no use, because on average you will lose 0.5% and be left with no profit if you cannot ever withdraw the bonus. There are however, a couple of strategies you can employ to try and make a profit. With both strategies keep a tally of the bets you have made so you know when you have met the 'action' requirement.

One the the strategies listed below involves using the 'martingale' system. Do not use this strategy if you are playing for 'removable' bonuses - you do not need to take the risk because you will make a profit just playing perfect games of Blackjack.

People use the 'martingale' system at roulette, betting on the evens bets like black/red. It can also be used at Blackjack. With this system you normally aim to gain 1 unit per round. So you bet $1 say, and lose. Then you bet $2. If you win, you win $2 and this compensate you the $1 you lost and still gives you $1 profit - great. So as long as you have enough money, you are
bound to win sometime - this is true.

The big problem with this system is you need to stay lucky and not have a long losing streak. You would need a huge amount of money to stay in the game , all in pursuit of $1. For example, if you lose 10 consecutive bets, you will have bet $1,$2,$4,$8,$16,$32,$64,$128,$256 and $512 totaling $1023 - your next bet is $1024 and you may lose that! Even if you have lots of money the casinos have table limits on each game - if you hit the table limit, you are stuck. A long losing streak WILL happen at some time and completely wipe out your bank. For this reason the 'Martingale' is also known as the 'gamblers ruin' and is best avoided unless playing in very short bursts. It is better to accept a small loss and move on rather than go bust! Don't get sucked in when you do not need to.

Hard to Remove Bonuses: Strategy One - (play single hand)

One option is to place a very high bet - i.e. Bet the full bonus amount on black or red at roulette or preferably on a single hand of Blackjack (if allowed towards the 'action' requirement AND within table limits). You will either win immediately or you will lose the bonus.(You may not be able to 'split' or 'double' or 'surrender' when you use this strategy). If you win, simply play perfect games of Blackjack with the minimum stake until you have met the 'action' requirement then withdraw.

Take the view that you are initially placing a high wager on a bet that is close to 50/50. Sometimes you will win (and win big) and other times you will lose. On average you will win more than you lose and very quickly. There are plenty of casinos offering very high bonuses that you cannot withdraw.

For example, Golden Palace currently offer 300% bonus. You deposit $100, they give you $300 - so you have $400 to play with.
Play Blackjack (single hand) and bet the maximum you can. If you win, great you will win $300. If you lost you have only lost $100. Move to another casino with similar bonuses and repeat. On average you will win more than you lose, winning around $300 when you are successful and losing only $100 when you lose.

Hard to Remove Bonuses: Strategy Two - (very aggressive - play single-hand)

Although we said earlier that the 'martingale' is a risky strategy that can only lead to ruin eventually, it can be used in short bursts if you are facing above average losses on the normal system if you are prepared to take the risk or when trying to make a profit on hard to remove bonuses. Go back to the standard system as soon as you are back on track.
Simply play Blackjack, single hand, with the minimum unit possible, say $1. If you lose then bet $1 on the second hand. If you lose again then bet $2 on the 3rd hand. If you win go back to $1 and start again. If you lose then continue with the martingale until you win (or go bust).
The sequence is $1, $2, $4, $8, $16, $32, $64, $128 etc.
By betting in this sequence, you are never accepting a loss, and ensuring that you need to lose 8 consecutive hands to go bust based on a $400 bank. Otherwise you should make a healthy profit.
By the time you have played out the 'action' requirement you should have made a decent profit (remember to keep a tally!!) You will only lose if you have lost 8 consecutive hands. Make sure you play single hand blackjack (if you play multi-hand and the dealer gets a Blackjack this could mean losing 3 on one hand!).

Other Staking Plans

The Stop-Loss System

You have reached the casinos action requirement and would like to try for some extra profit. The first thing you need to decide to how much you are prepared to lose (say $20). So say for example your balance is $400 you set a stop-loss of $380. You continue to play a perfect game of Blackjack but no longer need to tally each wager.
If you win a hand your balance may increase to $403 (playing 3 hand Multi-Blackjack). Raise your stop loss to ($403-$20) =$383. Now continue to play, increasing your stop-loss if your balance increases beyond $403. If you lose money and reach your stop-loss figure then stop playing and cash in.
This will give you the chance to make some extra money - with no limit to the amount you can gain. Of course your losses are limited to $20 (or whatever figure you choose).

A more aggressive Stop-Loss system

With this system, your stakes increase when you win, and decrease when you lose. You still set a stop-loss figure so you losses will be limited and profits can be huge if you enjoy a winning streak.
You need 4 numbers to start with:
Target Balance: I suggest $50 above your current balance.
StopLoss- The minimum balance you are prepared to drop to - I suggest 10-20% below your balance.
Minimum bet: The higher minimum you set, the higher the risk.
Aggression level: 4= safe, 3 =medium risk and 2=high risk. This number equates to the fraction of your balance above the stoploss you are going to put on the next bet, therefore an aggression level of 3 means you will bet 1/3 of your balance above the stop-loss on the next bet.
The system is fairly simple: your next stake is always (current balance - stoploss) / aggression level.
Let us see an example:
Your balance is $200. You set a target of $250, a stoploss of $180 and a minimum bet of $3. You decide on a aggression level of 3.
(Balance - StopLoss) / Aggression = Stake OutcomeStake 1 (200-180) / 3 = $6 WinStake 2. (206-180) / 3 = $8 LoseStake 3. (198 -180) / 3 = $6 WinStake 4 .(204 -180) / 3 = $8 WinStake 5 .(212 -180) / 3 = $10
WinStake 6. (222 -180) / 3 = $14 WinStake 7. (236 -180) / 3 = $18 Win
This winning streak takes you to a balance of $254. You have reached your target. Now you start the system again, deciding on a new target, stoploss, minimum bet and aggression level and play on until you either hit your new stop loss or decide to cash in.